Cher and Bob Mackie: the creation of a modern goddess

The mythological birth of a fashion piece.

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The partnership between Cher and Bob Mackie is the result of one of those happy, albeit rare, encounters that gives rise to an universe of possibilities. In their case, possibilities that are more shiny, more fun, and certainly encourages a generation of creativity and enthusiasm.

Back in the 1960s, Cher was a young folk singer, alongside her then-husband Sonny Bono. Despite their success, Cher was considered the lesser-known part of the duo, often shy and fearful of the stage. Around the same time, Mackie had just begun his career in fashion. Initially as a sketch artist, and later as a costume assistant at Paramount Studios, thanks to Edith Head (the stylist and inspiration behind Edna Mode, from The Incredibles, 2004).

And just as Mackie had his own 'fairy godmother', Cher had one too. In 1967, the brilliant mind of Diana Vreeland - editor-in-chief of VOGUE - along with photographer Richard Avedon, discovered her talent for embodying different emotions and personalities through her style. This discovery came at a perfect time, as Cher, as would repeat over the years, needed to reinvent herself. In 1970, Fred Silverman - CBS programming chief - proposed The Sonny & Cher Comedy Hour. The success was so immense that not only was another season ordered, but it also moved to prime time. And it is in this setting that the meeting of souls - so to speak - between the singer and the designer occurs.

Mackie recalls: 'I was doing costumes for The Carol Burnett Show, and Cher and Sonny were guests (...) She was excited, full of energy, and said, 'One day, when we have enough money, I want to come see you and you'll do some things for me!' CBS asked me to have my own show, and I want you to do it!' And so, the goddess in the making found her sculptor.

Naturally, Cher's prophecy comes true, and Mackie designs all the costumes for her variety show, creating timeless looks. Combining crop tops with long skirts, dresses in the naked figure style (one of the first women to show her belly button on television), prints, and layering glitter upon glitter, Cher's image was etched into the public's mind. Meanwhile, the designer gained increasing prominence and dressed artists such as Elton John, Diana Ross, Tina Turner, Madonna, and RuPaul, just to name a few. His visual identity was unmistakable, with opulent colors, jewels, and the movement of his pieces. Thus, he rightfully earned the title of 'Hollywood's Guru of Glitter'.

However, it is important to remember that a significant part of the success, for both, comes from innovation in their respective fields. Cher, adopting a free, opulent, and authentic stance, with her long black hair - reminiscent of Morticia Addams from The Addams Family - ultra-thin eyebrows, and defined features, set the trends. Mackie, with his incredible taste, effortlessly navigated between elegant and extravagant, garnering a legion of admirers.

Just to give an example, in 1974, the Met Gala took place. Lights, flashes, and an imminent sexual awakening: the debut of the famous naked dress. The idea was not new to Mackie, as he was the creator of Marilyn Monroe's immortal dress when she sang 'Happy Birthday' to President Kennedy. Made of souffle silk - a delicate fabric, at the time banned in the USA - the fabric was placed on Cher and immediately sprayed afterward to adhere to her skin, creating a realistic nude appearance. The sensation was immense, whether for its beauty and modern aesthetic or the outrage of more conservative viewers. Cher later wore it again, this time for the cover of TIME magazine. The issue was banned in several cities but sold out almost immediately as well.

Many other iconic moments were born from this collaboration, such as the 1986 Oscars, where Cher received harsh criticism for appearing on the red carpet in a dress covered in black sequins and ostrich feathers. To Mackie, Cher simply said, 'I don't want to look like a housewife in a nightgown.', and so she didn't. The essence remains. The essence of the pop goddess and the glitter guru is easily noticeable. Whether it's the return of the natural look, the controversy over Marilyn Monroe's dress worn by Kim Kardashian at the Met Gala, the long straight black hair, or the TikTok trend showing off their clothes with Cher's deep voice in the background, 'Can I hear a little commotion for the dress? Now let’s hear it for the back of the dress!'.

Of course, Mackie created many other collections and partnerships (like his famous collaboration with the Barbie doll), and Cher wore many clothes from many fashion designers. But fundamentally, it is these two who endure. No matter the outfit, Cher would wear it if it bore Bob Mackie's signature, and no matter how unusual the request, as long as Cher made it, it was done. So it was, and so it has been for over 40 years since the first encounter between these living legends.